Baja California Road Report
The latest reports of road conditions and driving conditions along Mexico's Hwy 1 through Baja California.
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Our road reports depend on our network of BajaInsider readers to give us the lowdown on the 1000 miles of road between the border and Cabo San Lucas. We also appreciate your
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When we first began publishing our road reports 7 years ago road conditions could change dramatically, particularly during our rainy season. Today, most of the major vados have been replaced with bridges and four lane road exists near Constitucion and La Paz to Todos Santos. Soon the 4 lane will be complete to Pescadero and by the end of 2011 all the way to Cabo. Rough road usually exists in the region between Baja California and Baja California Sur. Any kind of major road detour is the result of construction or rains and by-passes are often in place within 24hrs and paved if need be within days.
Driving Baja is quite simply put, far less of a challenge than a decade ago and not much different than driving many of California's 2 lane highways. One notable exception is the lack of shoulders but even that is being remedied.
Click here for a rare Hwy 5 South of San Felipe Report
There is still one truisms/joke about driving in Baja...
How many doors on a Baja Roadside rest area? Two, the driver's and passenger's!
Sobriety road blocks are becoming more common, particularly in community problem areas. In May there were 4 fatalities on the road to Pichilingue and the beaches of Balandra and Tecolote north of La Paz. They involved excessive speed, passing in bad areas and wrong way drivers. Now, La Paz police are checking drivers entering and leaving the downtown area for the beaches beginning at about 7PM Thursday through Sunday.
As a tourist you are allow to bring in ONE desktop computer or laptop per person. Additional computers will be taxed, used or new. The minimum taxable amount is $300 USD. This is being strictly enforced, even at the airport in Cabo San Lucas.
Printable Baja California Peninsula Mileage Chart
Baja Road Reports from Our Readers
San Diego to Cabo San Lucas
January 4-5, 2012
David Milch -
Regular Baja Driver
We left very early on Wednesday with a goodly load of house wares in a trailer headed for our home in Cabo San Lucas. It was still dark when we cross the border, we had all our documents on hand including our FM's but despite pulling a red light at the 'inspection lottery' the attendant in the booth opted not to come out and check our cargo, and huddled over his hot coffee.
I made a wrong turn in Ensenada as the sun was coming up. I usually follow the waterfront and make the turn left back to Hwy 1 and the Giant Store. I was in the wrong lane too late and ended up with an unintentional tour of the south side of Ensenada.
South of Ensenada there is still and will be for a while, significant construction. The detours reduced our speed for about 7km to a crawl with our heavy load, but it wasn't too hard on the trailer. Clear sailing from there south to El Rosario. But lots of traffic in Colnet and San Quentin, where there seems to be a special sale on traffic lights. We averaged only about 35mph for nearly an hour.
The was the permanent Check Point north of El Rosario where they did open our trailer and briefly paw through the top layer of items. They were professional and courteous and we were on our way in about 20 minutes. I felt sorry for the folks just behind us as a bus pulled up and they began checking every piece of luggage. I am certain the delay was much longer after the bus.
To our surprise there was a temporary 'surprise' check point just the other side of town, maybe 10km away. Having only rarely seen, and not much in recent years, these impromptu check points we were a little on edge as we approached. At the checkpoint we were popped open the trailer for them, after a quick glance inside their radio squawked and I presume the previous checkpoint told them we had already been searched and we were quickly on our way. They had much more interest in northbound vehicles than those southbound. They had also detained two Mexicans who had even from a distance obviously been drinking. I don't know the outcome of that.
The rough road at the southern end of Baja California, near Guerrero Negro was quite rough and had the heavy trailer dancing behind the car over 55mph. With the delays and very short daylight we arrive in G. N. about 1 hr after dark. Just north of Santa Maria a large white bull stepped into the headlights. We missed him with a good amount to spare, but it knocked about 10mph off my speed until we got to the motel.
At the checkpoint near Loreto we had the most complete search of the vehicle I have ever endured. A soldier with a dog circled the trailer and the dog sniffed. I have reason to doubt that the dog was more than a buddy to the troops and a deterrent to criminals.
The rest of the way to Todos was a breeze. I think we averaged 60mph+. The construction from Los Cerritos almost to Cabo was a bit trying, mostly on the my butt that was more than ready to arrive at our destination. The construction is moving here at a very quick pace and should be completed this year, 4 lanes from La Paz to Cabo San Lucas on Hwy 19.
Good drive, glad to be back in Mexico again. The stress of hauling a trailer from our home, through traffic to San Diego was worse than the next two days of driving Baja's Hwy 1. Enjoyed our trip.
Changes to the La Paz Malecon
December 12, 2011
BajaInsider
There have been significant changes to the Malecon traffic flow since many snowbirds last visited La Paz. With the improvements to the Malecon more people are taking their evenings to walk the promminade and the conflict between walkers and bike riders apparently reach someone in city hall. All bike traffic is now to use a two way bike lane on the outside of the roadway. The bike like is separated from auto traffic by '"dragon's teeth" and in the first few weeks police were stationed every other block to site folks for driving in the new lanes and bikes for not using the bike lanes.
The problem is the space for the new bike lanes was taken from auto travel lanes. According to the SudCaliforniano the Malecon is now one lane in each direction from Marcos de Leon on the southwest end to El Molino (the windmill) on the northeastern end. I have seen cars blocked from passing in this section by police vehicles and at least two that appeared to have been ticketed for it.
However, the lane is about one and a half cars wide from Cinco de Mayo (about 1/2 way) to El Molino. Locals who are use to this being 2 lanes in each direction since the dawn of time continue to pass despite the space restrictions. If you have 'foriegn' plates it is probably a good idea to observe this as one lane each direction and let the locals pass if they want to.
San Diego to La Paz
December 10-11, 2011
David, Veteran Baja Driver
Passed through the border checkpoint at 5AM it was a bit blustery and despite the 'red light' for inspection we were waved through. We didn't have anything to declare anyway.
For anyone who has driven Highway 1 in the past road reports are nearly academic nowadays. No more washed out roadways or long sections of no pavement. Ooops, the long stretchs of detours have become the single greatest obstacle in one's drive. Like previous road reports there remains a long stretch of dirt detour south of Ensenada and this is just about the only impediment in the trip. I figure it is about 5 miles of rough dirt that gets pretty sloppy after a rain, but is passable to all vehicles.
The long stretch at the southern end of Baja California south bound into Guerrero Negro was a little rough and since we arrived at that point after dark it became a little more hair raising when I swear a bull standing on the side of the road passed quickly in front of us out of the dark
At this time of year, with the foreshortened days that first stretch is hard to complete a 2 day trip entirely in daylight. With the construction it took us almost 11hrs to get from the border to Guerrero Negro. I see why some folks in less of a hurry break it into a three day journey. Don't drive after dark if you can avoid it. Cows in the road are good for a few extra gray hairs!
We passed fewer Green Angels (road assistance) that we had ever not seen before. More Federal Highway Patrol through, and it appeared they had forward firing radar. We got lucky and I saw him before he saw me.
Another rarity was the fact that we were inspected to a varying degree at all southbound military check point. They were as always, quick, courteous and entertained by our dogs.
Truck traffic was particularly light, but I think it was because of the Dia de Guadalupe 3 day weekend.
There is still some construction around Constitucion and Insurgentes, but all in all, Baja Sur was a quick trip.
We did cut it real close on gas between El Rosario and Santa Rosa north of Guerrero Negro. The station was very busy in El Rosario so I blew past it. The station in Catavina was closed. Tank up in El Rosario, as it is 268 miles to the next certain gas station.
Happy Trails
David
Mexicali to Puerticitos
Mexico Hwy 3
Novmber 25, 2011
Peter - Veteran Baja Driver
The realignment is finished near Campo Mosquido, a real improvement has been made at Campo Colorado, they moved a mountain of rock. I only encountered 1 detour, we had to leave the pavement for construction. Otherwise 90-110km/h is the speed limit/ There are not places to take a pee break, as turnouts any more as, road is being "fenced" with barbed wire.
The construction was at a fever pace, completeing bridges and under flows. We drove during rare storm and no lakes on the roads,.cowpattys cold beer, but designate a driver being in mexico dosent give a license for stupidity.
Puerticitios to Gonzaga: This road has recently been completed, Pemex gas station is closed 1 day a week in Puerticitos (closed Tuesday and at lunch 2-3PM) The Gonzaga gas station is closed Wednesday, confirm this before you leave. In typical Mexico fashion, if the station is closed always ask a local, they have opened special for me for a "fee".
There is lots of work going south from here pavement is going down daily. The realignment of the road will skip Coco's Corner and last we heard he was ill in Ensenada. That is the down side but the up side is avoid the old lake 'LAGUNA CHAPALLA" and you get to the highway much quicker
Tijuana to Cabo Hwy 1
November 18th & 19
Ina Yank - Unknown experience
The road good most of the way. There was a stretch of packed dirt south of Ensenada, but only for about 7 miles.
From Todos Santos to Cabo: I was told that the road was going to be closed and only open every 20 minutes for one way traffic. Since I came through on a Sunday I decided to chance it. No workers or trucks since it was Sunday and the first 12 miles south of Todos Santos was paved. After that sporadic construction on the roads but it was an easy drive. Yes, it was a little rough but I've seen worse washboard roads in Cabo. Lots of dust but much better than I anticipated. Made it from Todos to Cabo in one hour. Keep in mind, this was a Sunday and the lack of road workers and trucks most likely was a big factor in the ease of the drive.
Baja Sur Loop – Cabo to La Paz and Back
November 1-4, 2011
Bob Walsh – Third Season Driver
We drove north from San Jose del Cabo through Cabo San Lucas and up Hwy 19 to Todos Santos and La Paz. This is commonly known as the western route or the Pacific side. On our return trip we took Hwy 1 back down the east side.
All the roads were near-perfect, MUCH better than U.S. highways, with one huge exception: Between Cabo San Lucas and Pescadero, there is major construction as the 4 lane construction
on moves ahead, as noted in the May 22 post below. True, it is "passable to any vehicle", but the bypasses are getting rough, and it's almost half of the total distance! Newer cars were crawling along to reduce wear-and-tear, 
and just enough traffic that it\'s hard to pass. Nothing bad by historical standards, but it turns a 40 minute cruise into 2 hours of rattles and dust, so be prepared.
The East Cape road to La Ribera is good, but has a few potholes that could cause serious damage, so be looking ahead. And there are lots of speed-bumps around La Paz and Los Barriles, most of them marked but not all, keep those eyes looking ahead!
It was our first time on Hwy 1 from the Y to Los Barriles, amazingly beautiful! It took hours, because I stopped a million times to take pictures!!! There were check points in Todos Santos and in the mountains near San Bartolo, but they just waved us through.
TJ to San Jose del Cabo
October 30-31
Dennis Painter Veteran Baja Driver
This is a supplement to a couple of the recent reports below and contains tips that some may find helpful.
We make a trip down Baja every year in late October to our winter home in Los Cabos, returning north in mid-May. Going south, I always try to cross the border on a Sunday morning because traffic is always very light at San Ysidro on Sunday early A.M., there is no line at immigration (we usually have to wake them up), there are few, if any, cars in the customs inspection lot, and everything and everyone is pretty laid back.
This year our trip began at 4:00 A.M. on Sunday, October 30th, when we had our FM-3 visas checked, our US passports stamped (very important as I will explain later), and our fully loaded long bed pickup checked by customs at the San Ysidro border crossing into Tijuana.
The immigration office, which has been in the same location for the past four years, has apparently been moved. Previously located just inside the pedestrian gate leading from San Ysidro to Tijuana, it is now located down an outside sidewalk just to the south of the old office. When we knocked on the old office door, someone stuck their head out of the adjacent gate, saw our passports, and beckoned us to follow him down the sidewalk.
At 4:00 A.M., it was a little eerie but we followed obediently and were ushered into the new, larger, processing area. The young, uniformed agent was most pleasant, spoke good English, and had us on our way shortly. Another reporter noted the danger from animals of driving roads north and southeast of Guerrero Negro after dark. In the fall, we know we will be driving after sunset for at least two hours (the days are shorter in the fall and you are actually driving southeast so it really shortens the day). Our solution is to drive the first part of the first day in the dark (the portion from TJ to Ensenada) since it is controlled access and about as safe as you will get in Mexico. We watched sunrise south of Ensenada.
Road Conditions have been well reported by others. Because we were traveling on Sunday, we avoided any actual construction. The worst was the construction north of Guerrero Negro. The northbound lane was semi-paved; the southbound lane was barely passable. We ended up behind a pickup camper towing a large trailer. He almost got stuck several times.
Because northbound traffic was light, several times we jumped across to the semi-paved lane and then back to the dirt when an oncoming vehicle was observed. Probably not recommended but it was obvious that others had been doing the same thing.
Two military checkpoints are worth mentioning. Between Catavina and Guerrero Negro—asked to step out and open the back of the truck for a brief inspection. That’s a bit unusual going south. North of Loreto we encountered the most through search I have ever undergone driving south. I was asked to step out of the vehicle but they allowed the wife and two dogs to remain in the truck. We had to show drivers licenses, passports, and visas which they recorded. They also checked for current San Ysidro immigration stamps. One of the soldiers crawled so far into our load to open bags, etc. that only his two boots were outside the tailgate. This very diligent inspection may have been inspired by the vehicle beside us. When we pulled up to the inspection location, there was a pickup with camper shell being given a full inspection. The driver (fiftyish, hippy look) was trying to explain in English why he was carrying fireworks. Then, as I left, he was saying repeatedly, “I didn’t know it was in there!” to what looked like a pot pipe that they had dug out of his camper. Didn’t see this guy again on our trip; may not see him for a long time. ASSUME YOU WILL BE THROUGHLY INSPECTED AND LOAD ACCORDINGLY.
Food and lodging are not readily available south of Ensenada. Our trip planning involves carrying some food and water plus finding good accommodations for ourselves and our dogs. Going south, we usually have brunch at a little roadside shack on the east side of the road just north of San Quentin. There are probably six or more of these huts. The “parking lot” is paved with broken clam shells. We usually eat at the shack that has an old refrigerator/smoker in front. They make a tomato broth soup full of clams in an aluminum pouch that is really good. About $5.00 USD. In San Ignacio, we stay at the Desert Inn (inside courtyard provides grass and safety for the dogs) and eat at Beans and Rice. We also grabbed some quick carnitas tacos in Ciudad Constitution at a restaurant/taco stand on the west side of the boulevard near the southern edge of town. Tacos were 15 pesos each and were good sized.
TJ to Cabo San Lucas
October 27, 2011
Robert Kelly
Veteran Baja Driver
I read the Insider Road Report before leaving, much of what has been going on all summer on the highways of Baja California is still true. South of Ensenada there are still kilometers at a time of unfinished roadway. Significant work is being done, the roadbed itself is being replaced down about a meter. Additional lanes look like they are being added.
All the by-passes were good for any vehicle – now. When Baja California starts to get some winter rains these by passes could become a real messy operation.
It makes for a very long day to our usual 'half way point' in Guerrero Negro and we ended up driving after dark the last 60 miles or so into GN. That area is rich with wild life, we saw several large bovine loom up in the headlights that we missed my inches, even at relatively low speeds. Finally we did clip something that bounded into the road, a goad or deer possibly, it happened so fast and the animal disappeared into the dark. Messed up the right headlight pretty good. Made it the rest of the way to GN with one headlight.
The second day in Baja Sur made up for the trials of the previous day. I always take a breather after Cuesta del Inferno just north of Santa Rosilia and take in that first view of the Sea of Cortez. It is a good place to stretch the legs too. While I was there a Federal Highway Patrol pulled in and did a drive around of my car. I thought I was about to buy a cop lunch or more. But he just did the round-about of the car, waved and drove north again. It is right where the Federal Highway ends.
I did get the hairy eyeball from local cops in Santa Rosilia and Constitucion, but nothing more. They were both very obviously looking to see if I had current US stickers on my plates. I did.
Made excellent time through Baja Sur, had tacos in Constitucion and made Cabo just as it was getting dark. Great trip, the front fender will paint up just fine. Just part of the cost of this years Baja adventure!
TJ to La Ventana
Sept 25-26, 2011
Bruce Warren
Veteran Baja Driver
http://surfskibaja.blogspot.com/
Day one: This will be my fourth year of driving from Vancouver to La Paz and the Baja California portion is the worst I’ve seen it. After picking up my FMM card at the San Ysidro border crossing (7 am) I checked the GPS which said 3 PM arrival at Guerrero Negro. It was three hours off my real time.
There are four sections of the road which are being worked on - north of Santo Tomas, north and south of Catavina and north of Guerrero Negro. Each section is 5 to 10 km in length and involves a detour off the road as they are ripping up the old pavement and putting new down and the paving machine is not keeping up with the ripping machine. If you have anything valuable in your vehicle, like kids or kidneys, you’ll take these sections in low gear.
I stopped for a late breakfast at La Mission restaurant in Vicente Guerrero (north of San Quentin). West side of highway. Highly recommended. I’m on my way to La Paz so tomorrow
Day two: Guerrero Negro to La Paz ( La Ventana) September 29, 2011. Sorry about the delay in posting my report from day two but it is just too hot to type. The quality of the road south of Guerrero Negro in Baja California Sur makes up for the poor conditions to the north. This year there are two Bajas: Baja Sur and Baja under repair.
It was easy to do 60 to 80 miles per hour for most of the way today. The highway has newly painted lines, there are mile long bridges over large arroyos wide enough for four lanes and even the two minor detours were paved. I had no issues with police at any point. The desert around Mulege and Loreto has more shades of green than I've ever seen. Gas is 9.17 per liter. The exchange rate varies from 11 to 13.5 pesos per US dollar.
Editor's Note: It is a good idea to exchange your dollars for pesos before hitting the road in Baja this season. With the volatility of the dollar/pesos banks are providing a wide spread between buy and sell on the dollar. Also few places will accept $100 dollar bills. Pemex station, particularly those in more remote areas, are going to really hose you on the dollar.
La Paz to TJ
Aug 20, 2011
Don & Maggie
Leaving La Paz, Saturday, had detour s of Santa Fe turn off, Km 111 - Km 112
speed dropped to 15 mph for 10 minutes. A short day to Constitucion.
Sunday, left Constitution for Vizcaino. We picked a great day with all the resurfacing being done, no one working on Sunday.
Dirt road from south of Candeleros, Km 83 - 86, where we dropped the speed to 20 mph for 5 minutes.
Bridge under construction n of Loreto Km 11
First Fed stop north of Loreto at Km 25 for 12 minutes
Resurfacing s of El Burro Cove, near Conception Bay Km 99 for 5 minutes
Second Fed stop between San Ignacio and Vizcaino for 3 minutes.
North of Guerrero Negro was the worst!
Km 73 - 88
One gravel lane going north, one lane on dirt going south
speed 10 mph for 30 minutes
8 KM south of Catavina
Km 193 - 203 all dirt
speed 10 mph for 20 minutes
North of Mission San Fernando
Km 119 - 122
Dirt, flag man one way at a time.
North of Santo Tomas K40-K44
Dirt Road both ways
10 mph for 4Km
Ensenada to Tecate Route 3
North and South of Testerazo
Dirt and Gravel both ways
15 mph for 3Km
Don & Maggie
TJ to Constitucion
May 28, 2011
Marco Roman - Veteran Baja Driver
There is construction past Santo Tomas of a new permanent checkpoint, but it is not open yet.
Further south there is construction before Camalu and a Score off-road race was also going on the weekend and slowed traffic a little more than usual.
Road construction on way to Catavina and there is some light road repair past Catavina.
From El Pedregoso to Guerrero Negro road was okay.
Guerrero Negro to Santa Rosalia good road.
Santa Rosalia to Mulege KM 178 construction.
Mulege to Loreto KM 98 Bridge construction.
Loreto to Villa Insurgentes road construction on curves past Luigi.
More road construction past entrance to Agua Verde.
I drove as south as Constitucion and road was good to there... All detours around construction were passable and delays were very minimal. Been traveling to baja over 20 years, driving past 6.
La Paz to Ensenada
May 17-18, 2011
Dennis Painter - Veteran Baja Driver
Though our journey actually began in San Jose del Cabo, the recent report by another reporter on the CSL-La Paz stretch of road pretty well covers that part of the trip. Therefore, I will concentrate my remarks on the road from La Paz north.
The usual military checkpoint just north of La Paz was closed except for a couple of food carts. It looked like it had not been used in awhile. This saved us a few minutes. Our first major delay occurred in the mountains between Ciudad Constitucion and Loreto. Some of this stretch of road was repaved last summer. Now, the next section to the south is being ripped up and replaced. Traffic is one way on gravel for several miles.
We experienced a 40 minute delay there. Again, as previously reported by another writer, the Loreto to Mulege to Santa Rosalia road is continuing to undergo serious upgrading resulting in several delays. The longest delay was 15 minutes with a couple more of 5 minutes.
There was also several additional stretches where we were slowed by detours but did not have delays. Santa Rosalia to El Rosario was as expected. The rough road north of Guerrero Negro and also just south of Catavina has been widely reported.
Otherwise, it was pretty clear sailing. The road through the mountains north of El Rosario until just south of Santo Tomas is a joy after all the major construction of the past couple of years. Now, however, they are starting on the next stretch the north. Again, be prepared for some delays.
To summarize, it’s once again high road construction season in Baja. I figure the delays and detours probably added two hours to our trip with most occurring in BCS. On the other hand, the newly completed sections of the road are a wonderful improvement and do reduce overall drive time somewhat. Enjoy what has been done and look forward to what it will look like in a few more years.
I will close with an encouraging story for those driving Baja. My alternator on my 1995 Ford diesel truck went out just south of San Ignacio. Normally, we spend the night in Guerrero Negro but not this night. We checked into the Desert Inn in San Ignacio. I mentally prepared myself and my wife for a major delay (like a day or two) while an alternator was shipped in from someplace far away. I mentioned my vehicle problem to the Desert Inn bartender (who spoke great English, by the way) and asked if he knew of a mechanic. He had the front desk call and within 20 minutes, three gentlemen pulled up with wrenches in hand, diagnosed the problem and confirmed my initial appraisal, removed the old alternator, and said they would be back. I asked how long to get a new alternator shipped in.
They said, “No problem, the local parts house is open until 10 o’clock. If they don’t have a new one, we will rebuild yours.” Sure enough they were back in about 30 minutes with a new alternator, installed the alternator (it was too small), removed it and soon returned with the correct part which they installed by flashlight. Total cost including installation: 1500 PESOS. Total loss of drive time: ZERO. What a country!
La Paz to Cabo San Lucas
May 22, 2011
BajaInsider
The 4 lane between La Paz and Cabo continues to progress toward the completion date in 2012. I don't think they will have much difficulty in making the deadline.
The 4 lane is complete on Hwy 1 from La Paz to the "Y" just past San Pedro. San Pedro use to be a pleasant little town where you stopped to get your first cold beverage on the way to Cabo. Now, at highway speeds you blink and miss town.
Hwy 19 from the "Y" to Todos Santos is also complete to just outside of town. There is one bridge construction detour just north of Todos, but as with all this construction the By-passes are paved or regularly graded and passable to ANY vehicle.
The four lane has recently opened from just south of Todos to Pescadero. There is some new development construction underway just south of Todos and large trucks can carry rocks and dirt onto the highway. Watch it if following a truck, I had my windshield 'starred'. (again)
The bulk of the crews are working from Ceritos to Cabo. Lots of detours around new bridges underway. All of these are very passable to any vehicle. There can be some short delays as trucks enter the roadway.
The worst part is the newly finished road, which inches north from Cabo. What lane to use can be confusing. Things are ever striped right away and southbound it is particularly confusing. It was obviously confusing to a north bound car too, as he was in my lane! Watch this particularly after dark. That new pavement and no lines raises heck with eyes over 40.
Even with the construction a trip from La Paz to Cabo can take 90min or less now and getting stuck behind a caravan of trucks is becoming a rare occurrence now.
Hugo Foster
April 28, 2011
Cabo to Ensenada
No problems except roadwork 20 miles north of Loreto, they are replacing the entire roadbed. We had about a 10 min wait. and followed several road graders thru the dirt. They were repairing washed out Vados the crossing being totally replaced, no new puente here. I figure on another 2 wks as they need to tamp, compact, roller, and pave both sides, it is a big time road replacement.
Day 2, Guerrero Negro to Ensenada. 20 miles north of Villa Jesus Maria there is a disorganized military chkpoint, we .waited 20 min. while the 15 yr olds with M-16's inspected the autobus ahead in the passenger lane.
Severe bad pavement north of that chkpoint for around 10 miles to just south of Catavina. Make a speed reduction necessary unless you want to lose your fillings, there is some road work slows and stops but nothing severe, as the crews continue to improve the road.
Be careful of pavement dips on narrow stretches as the roadbed erodes to the extent that you will feel the tug to the right on the steering wheel and the white line is centimeters away with no shoulders. The new sections of hwy include shoulders when possible. I hope the road eventually gets reworked this way or another 2 lane is built to make a 4 laner in the futura...`
March 19-27, 2011
US to La Paz and Back
Josh
Veteran Baja Driver
We just completed a drive to La Paz and back. We left on 19 March and returned on 27 March. The trip was successful; no banditos, no drug lords, no crooked cops, none of the drama that the news is reporting. There are currently six military check points between TJ and La Paz. The guys manning these are very professional and gave us no troubles.
The road is in great shape. There are a few rough patches south of Catavina, but they are no worse than US-101 here in Southern California. There have been many recent improvements including new bridges across the larger vados. Because of this you might have to wait a minute or two for construction crews (mostly in Baja Sur).
As for gas, I had no trouble with the stations in El Rosario, Jesus Maria, San Ignacio, Loreto (main station on the highway), and La Paz (station in town). There is a station in Loreto on Benito Juarez. This station is not calibrated correctly and overcharged by about 15 percent.
As for lodging, we stayed one night at Baja Jardin's in San Quentin. This was a very nice place that caters to American tourists. It is very clean and everyone speaks English. I have nothing bad to say about it, but I was looking for something a bit more authentic. Jardin's is a bit too easy... I like a challenge.
We also stayed one night in Loreto at San Martin's. This was nice, relatively clean and cheap. The one drawback is that it is on the local teenagers' cursing route. As such it was fairly noisy... such is life.
On the way back up we stayed at Maria Celeste on the south end of San Quentin. This was a remarkable find. This was a very clean and affordable hotel. The best part is it is in walking distance to the greatest taco place in the world. If you are driving through DO NOT MISS TACOS LOS PABLANOS.
Tacos Los Pablanos is a taco joint just south of Calle 1ra on the west side of the highway. We found it randomly walking down the street after checking into the hotel. We were looking for a place to eat and none of the restaurants we saw had any customers. We kept trudging up the road until we came across this taco shack with about two-dozen locals gathered around. We grabbed seats at the counter and went to town. They have Asada and Al Pastor and make tacos, tostadas, and tortas. Just ask for some tacos con todos (with everything) and enjoy. I ate as many tacos as I could fit for 70 pesos (about $6 US). They don't speak any English here, but even without any Spanish speaking ability you can communicate well enough to get fed. And the folks running this place are super friendly.
All-in-all, this was a great trip. I felt as safe in Baja as I have in my travels through Europe. All of the hype coming from the news and the State Department is overstated. I ran into many nice, friendly people and I had no troubles from anyone. I prefer the people I met in Baja to many people I meet in Southern California.
February 17, 2011
Don Neilson, Veteran Baja Driver
Rosarito Beach to La Paz
This report covers Mexico Highway 1 from the Rosarito Beach/Puerto Nuevo area to La Paz, BCS, and was done in a Jeep Liberty towing a 17’ Casita travel trailer.
The combination of a short wheelbase tow vehicle and a short trailer on the undulating highway provided an abundance of bounce per kilometer and affected my perception of road conditions, not to mention my comfort as well as that of my wife.
The first significant problem, as reported by others, is no longer a problem since the road construction in the hills south of Maneadero is nearly finished, fully repaved in the southbound lanes, and as smooth as glass. Lane striping had not begun as of Feb. 12. In the mountains between Lázaro Cárdenas and El Rosario there is a short (1/2-mile)rough dirt detour due to road construction.
South of Cataviña, in the vicinity of San Martin, the road becomes quite rough with hundreds of shallow potholes until reaching approximately Km 203. From Km 203 to Km 215, the potholes pretty much disappear, but it is still rough.
Once past Km 215 the road returns to normal and improves considerably around Km 221. And that’s all the bad there is to report! Having last driven the highway in 1990, I found much to be grateful for, as it is apparent that the government is spending a lot of money to improve the highway by widening, repaving, and building bridges where none used to exist but should have. Concrete bridges are being built at all major vados, in sharp contrast with the past, and the detours are paved! But those bridges are a major contributor to highway bounce, because each section of the several it may take to cross a vado, is made with an upward curve where the middle is higher than the ends.
Depending on your speed, this provides an undulating surface and significant oscillations. 80 to 90 Kph provided exactly that for our car and trailer combination. Happy travels, Don Neilson
February 5, 2011
KVB
Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas
We made the drive from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas over two days, starting mid-morning Jan. 31.
The drive was a breeze, and I was driving a fairly low-slung German convertible. Any suggestions that the road is poor is inaccurate. There are some sections that are slightly rough, but I've hit far worse potholes on the Interstate coming in So Cal from Vegas.
Yes, the road is somewhat narrow, but given the absence of any appreciable amount of traffic, I'd say it's a hell of a lot safer than the I-91 & its tailgaters.
Many of the detours around construction were even paved, you don't see that in NE BC!
I was treated with courtesy at the military checkpoints, likely aided by the fact that I extended courtesy. Mostly just waved through the checkpoints, asked at one just north of Guerrero Negro to pop the trunk, the soldier was polite & just glanced through my toiletries bag and sent me on my way.
We only found one Pemex that didn't have Premium at its pumps. The most "painful" part of the trip was the 80 peso Vampiro, and 340 peso shrimp tacos with two Micheladas at the Desert Inn in Guerrero Negro, where I stayed the first night.
Spent a few hours driving in darkness north of G. N., probably wouldn't suggest it, but encountered no problems
January 13, 2011
La Paz to Cabo San Lucas
BajaInsider - Veteran Baja Driver
The 4 lane roadway from La Paz to Cabo San Lucas continues to make blazing progress. The road has been completed for several months now from La Paz to Todos Santos.
The intersection of Hwy 19 and Highway 1 just south of San Pedro has also been completely changed to include an overpass - no more stop signs and dangerous turns.
As stated above, the 4 lane is completed to from La Paz to Todos with the exception of one detour for another bridge being installed. The detour is paved, brief and not a problem for any vehicle.
If you have never observed the rapid process in which they are building these bridges it is worth a gander as you pass. The concrete bridge beams are for the most part, cast on site. Somewhere near the construction in the arroyo trenches are dug, plywood forms placed and woven rebar skeletons are placed in the forms. I have seen both pre made rebar webs made on the mainland arriving in Pichilingue (near La Paz) aboard ships and workers weaving the structures on the site. After the rebar is placed the plywood forms are backfilled with earth and the concrete is poured. The cast bridge beams are then dragged to the bridge site and a large crane hoists them into position. several beams are cast at a time, then the plywood forms recycled.
While the beams are cast the pilings are dug, drilled and planted in the riverbed. The whole process moves amazingly quickly and major bridges are built in a matter of a couple months. Let's see CALTRANS do that!
Nearly all of the arroyos that use to close highways 1 and 19 during our heavy fall rains have now been bridged and temporary closures of the roadways should soon be a thing of the past. Bridges have been completed as far south as Cerritos, and the construction of roadbed is well underway that far south as well. Curbs and drainage are being installed and I would estimate that the 4 lane will be completed from Todos to Cerritos before the end of January. There are still a couple of very brief detours around construction and a half dozen very short (20-50meter) dirt patches which provide the only hazards if you are driving too fast. All detours and construction is easily possible to any vehicle.
The traffic is often routed on to one side, two lanes of the completed roadway which has already been striped for 4 lanes. Don't be lulled into complacency by the dotted white line, be sure you are not in a zone where 2 way traffic has been routed into your lane before passing.
The old highway is still in use from Cerritos to about 20km north of Cabo San Lucas. There is some construction already begun on this stretch, preparing to begin bridge construction and road bed building which will probably begin before the end of January. The 4 lane construction resumes again and is completed well north of Cabo San Lucas.
The long grade uphill just north of Cabo is still just two lanes and where southbound slow trucks tend to bunch up, making passing difficult. However, road bed construction is already underway on the roadside.
The 4 lane is scheduled for completion in early 2012, but from the looks of progress it may be completed earlier. The roadway is entirely fenced off from the surrounding terrain, making the threat of hitting a goat or worse, a bull in the road diminished. But every once and a while one still finds its way onto the road.
I have been driving the route from La Paz to Cabo for more than a decade. The new road is certainly faster and facilitates much safer passing conditions for the route heavily traveled for all goods en route to Los Cabos. But is with a bit of sadness that the adventure of the trip is nearly gone. It has also dramatically effected the accessibility and business for the many roadside business that use to make the trip more fun, the victims of progress.
January 6, 2011
Tijuana to La Paz
Jason Elder - Veteran Baja Driver
Just came back north to Santa Barbara from La Paz....the roads were in good shape for the most part, except in certain isolated locations.
The worst by far was the conditions just 12 miles south of Ensenada, just past the military check point the road is really bad for 13 miles. the construction they are trying to accomplish is shady as always and with all the rain lately it has gotten to be like there is NO ROAD Be very careful driving this section as IDIOTS driving think its a free for all section and drive all sides FAST to miss the million 12-18 inch deep potholes that can range from 1 foot to 4 foot wide.
The other section is just past Catavina its not half as bad, as the afore mention, but it will keep you awake, as this section is very thin in width, no shoulder, bumpy, with 18 wheelers going past their limits...if you make these two sections...YOU GOT IT MADE
The roads are a lot healthier in Baja Sur.
November 27, 2010
Questions from Readers
BajaInsider.com Veteran Baja Driver
Recently a reader posed us this question it is certainly a legitimate question, considering what I too have read in the US media. please read on...
The reader asked, "Any information concerning the recent suggestion that travelers should travel in convoys because of the cartel violence? Is this applicable to Baja or just the mainland?"
If I were traveling through CD Juarez region I might consider this advice useful. There have also been some incidents on the mainland. These appear to target illegal US immigrants returning with all their earthly possessions to Mexico. As I am aware one bus was robbed and a couple of Americans were onboard in Sonora. When you are out of the country for a while such as me, you realize how much fear is peddled in the US news.
Here is more realistic thinking…
I would avoid driving at night, mainly due to hitting cows as a stationary (or relatively so) object. There have been no tourist ‘molestation’ incidents on Baja Hwy 1 in several years that I am aware of. Yes there is the occasional flat tire or transmission service rip off, but where doesn’t that happen to travelers.
It is always handy to travel with a ‘car buddy’ in case you run out of gas or have a flat. Often my ‘road buddy’ is someone I meet over the gas pumps at a Pemex station or military check point.
I am currently writing an article about this alleged “Civil War” going on in Mexico. The statistics just don’t support those ridiculous claims. You are FAR more likely to die in an automobile accident in Mexico than even SEE a cartel action. This is not significant as the death rate on Mexican roads is unchanged over the years, and about the same as US deaths on secondary roads. (As Mexico relies far more heavily on secondary roads) or about 23 per 100,000 miles. (The US freeway rate drops the US average significantly as it is only 9.2 100,000)
Tijuana is one of the more dangerous cities in Mexico – particularly if you are a cartel member. It had a murder rate of 7.2 per 100K, exactly the same as Philadelphia, which by chance has about the same population. This would only put TJ about 1/3 of the way up the list compared to most US cities. New Orleans being the hands down violence winner at 18.2 murders per 100K. Have you read any travel warnings to New Orleans recently in the US press?
If you deduct those deaths directly connected to the cartels TJ is just about as safe as San Diego across the border, one of the safest cities in the US.
I like to get about 100 miles south of any border to get into what I call ‘real Mexico’ anyway. (Although that line seems to keep pushing south.)
I have lived in La Paz continuously for 10 years now. I’ve been hit up by the cops three times for Mordita for a total cost of about $20USD. Annoying, but I consider it my “Mexican Road Tax.” I speak Spanish pretty fluently, that always helps. I’ve been ripped off once by a guy fixing an engine for me. I’ve endured one slightly intoxicated young lady rail on an anti gringo tirade. In 10 years that is the extent of my complaints in Mexico. I think in San Diego the traffic annoyed me more on a daily basis!
Some final trip-tips...
Enjoy your trip into Mexico, remain alert but not paranoid. Learn a little espanol, particularly your numbers. it really isn't that tough. Count your change, Mexicans know North Americans don't count their change, because we don;t know the money, think coins are small potatoes and are usually in a rush. Change your money to pesos in advance. You will find it more difficult to unload $US and virtually impossible to spend $100 notes outside of Cabo.
Again, don’t drive after dark if you can avoid it. Driving 450 miles a day is a very good day on these secondary roads and they ‘work’ you, as there is very little ‘cruise control time’. Watch for cows and cyclists. Much of Hwy 1 has been improved in the last decade and many places even have legitimate shoulder!
Fill up in El Rosario southbound and Guerrero Negro northbound. There has been a station in Catavina, but we have also had reports of its irregular hours. It is 219 miles between stations there. Running out of gas really sucks. If this happens you will most likely be assisted by a ‘green angel’ which are official vehicles and federal employees that all in all have proven quite corruption free and very helpful.
Watch for fog from El Rosario to Guerrero Negro, particularly in the AM. Sometimes you can’t see 3’ in front of you. Get WELL off the road if you stop. I recommend waiting and enjoying breakfast.
You will need a tourist visa south of Ensenada. These are available at Migration at the border, in Ensenada and at the inspection point between BC and BCS in Guerrero Negro. The station in G.N. is open an ungainly 9Am to 4PM. It is difficult to coordinate with these hours no matter which direction you are traveling. If you get to La Paz and don’t have a tourist visa it will usually cost you and extra $500 pesos. You may also pick up visas at the Consulate office on India Street in San Diego during weekday business hours. I BELIEVE you have to then pay for the visa in Mexico within X days, but that may have changed.
Mind your P’s and Q’s while driving through Catavina, Santa Rosalia and Constitucion/ CD Insurgentes. Cops like foreign plates to buy taco plates. Carry a small but believable amount of cash in your wallet.
The boojum forests are hard to identify if you think of forests in our North American context. But these stands of boojums do look particularly lovely at dusk and dawn.
Don’t play the ‘turn signal game’ It has developed too many meanings and last year a bus passed a dump truck with the left turn signal on, he thought it meant “OK to pass” Well, pass he did, into the next world. The dump truck driver was using his turn signal to indicate to an oncoming bus the location of the left side of his truck as the bus passed. 19 other persons onboard the two busses ‘passed’ as well.
There you go, I think I’ll post this on the road report!
Tomas
Editor BajaInsider.com
Additional Comments by the Editor
A newspaper in California contacted us about towing a trailer down Baja while I was editing John's story about the road conditions. I forwarded the above information to them along with the additional general information about driving Baja and thought, why not pass it along to our readers as well...
#1 DON’T DRIVE AT NIGHT. It’s not banditos, you have a statistical better chance of being struck by lightening. It’s the cows, 60 to 0 in a hurry! Mexicans LOVE 4 way flashers on their cars. Seen on an oncoming car usually indicates cows, or something else in the road ahead. US statistics show the two most dangerous times on a 2 lane highway is dusk and 2AM (when bars close), these stats translate pretty well to our Baja Highway 1
#1A Get Mexican Auto Insurance. US auto insurance does not cover you in Mexico. In the event of an accident you can be detained until fault and payment is determined. Without insurance, you could be fatally delayed from being evacuated to a more significant healthcare facility. Cost is from $25/day to less than $500/year (depending on car, trailer and value)
#2 Don’t be ostentatious, cover things of value like kayaks and brand new outboards. Keep the volume down and try to remain nondescript. This is good advice for travel anywhere where the locals earn in a year what you may earn in a week or month. If you look like you have too much, someone will relieve you of the ‘burden’.
#3 Don’t push it. Take 2 days in a car or three days from San Diego with a trailer. The road has very little ‘cruise control time’ so you are ‘on’ constantly and it gets wearing. Carry at least one extra tire for each vehicles and some extra gas. Be sure to buy gas in El Rosario, it’s 200km to the next full Pemex stop in Santa Rita, there is a mini station in Catavina now.
#4 Check our Road Report – we rely on reader participation, so during the summer it can get a little stale. rivers should watch for small washouts in the shoulder that can be painful when towing. They can send us a road report when they arrive and help everyone.
#5 Check the weather – We post forecasts every day and every two hours when a tropical cyclone threatens Baja. We have the ONLY English weather report FROM Baja. Don’t be the first to drive through a flooded vado (although there may not even be any more) Should a tropical cyclone ZZZZ materialize, find a nice hotel. Although this too is becoming history, sometimes you can get stranded nowhere on a highway island when roads flood or wash out. But as I said, this is becoming pretty rare. You can also run into gas stations that are shut down or have flooded tanks in storms. Damage usually only lasts a day or two. Hwy 1 is a major transport route for about 20-30% of the ‘stuff’ used here in Baja, so the hwy folks get right on making the road passable.
#5 Don’t carry all your money in one place. Carry a believable amount of cash on your wallet. “Driving while Gringo” is still an offence that could by a cop lunch (or a new set of tires) If you can open your wallet and say look, $20 is all I have, you’ll probably be on your way pretty quick. Obeying the traffic laws is another handy way to avoid Mordita, but not always sure. Most traffic fines are less than $75USD, most around $25. Don’t get sucked into the photocopied sheet some cops show that shows fines well over $100. Watch when the signs say the Federal Highway is ending (Carraterra federal terminado – Check my Spanish) Speed limits are usually much lower in these non-highway areas and you need to watch. Only Federal Hwy Patrol can effect a violation on the Federal Highway, they now have video cameras in car and radar and tend to be pretty just.. Three places to watch for this scam are La Paz, Catavina (note: even the trucks do 25mph though there) and Santa Rosalia.
#7 If you need roadside assistance the Green Angels are there to help. These are federally paid, well equipped and clearly marked trucks that roam Hwy 1. Most will refuse a tip for there assistance, there is an esprit du corps that somehow seems to keep these guys squeaky clean. I have never heard a bad Green Angle story. (their trucks have traditionally been green)
#8 Get your tourist visa as soon as you can when entering Mexico or at the consulate prior to your trip. I think in response to the US’s crack down on immigration we see them following the letter of the law on most occasions. If you get to Baja Sur without a tourist visa or valid FM2 or 3, your $18/180 day visa can cost you an extra $50 fine.
#9 On straight-away's consider driving more toward the center of the road. This will give you more time to react and help avoid those little washouts at the shoulder.
In mentioning the shoulder we should also mention that it is also one of the challenges of baja driving. The lack of a shoulder in a majority of your trip. Having a flat along the road may mean setting in a very dangerous situation. Flairs, cones, reflectors and even rocks, leading away from the shoulder are used to indicate a vehicle in the roadway ahead. Construction crews sometimes use rocks painted white or paint cans with burning diesel rags at night.
As to the safety threat – There has been massive response by the government and not a single attack on the highways of a tourist since last November 2007 (prior to the response) I won’t get into specific incidents, but many of the incidents I investigated involved being a ‘gringo tonto’. As I am aware, all of these attacks occurred in the first 100 miles south of the border.
North Americans have some of the tightest internal security (for the good and bad of it) of any nation I have traveled, and Americans pay the price for it. (yet bad thing STILL happen in state and national parks and along our roadways. Americans become ‘unaware travelers’ as a side effect. Finding the most secluded place along the beach to camp isn’t something I would do in at least ½ the countries to which I have traveled. A person who keeps up their awareness can usually tell when ‘the wolves start to circle.’
Just in contrast to all the ‘propaganda’ generated by slanted publications like the San Diego Union Tribune, who would have you believe that you have about a 50-50 chance of surviving a trip to Mexico, was the comment made by the Baja First Timer co-pilot of my friend, John Henigan mentioned above. They suffered three flat tires along the way and in each event the found a local, ready and eager to assist them on their way. Their warmth and willingness to offer what ever they had to resolve the problem melted away any Mexiphobia she had prior to the adventure.
One recent story in the Trib stated that “Kidnapping of Americans in Tijuana was the fastest growing crime segment’ True and false. The numbers off the top of my head were an increase from 14 to 26, yes an 85% increase. (see More than ½ of these events appear to have involved illicit activity, shall we say. Kidnapping is a growing industry in Mexico and the people have just about had enough (note demonstration last weekend) But the victims have been doctors at hospitals, management people of corporations and others that may be protected by deep pockets or kidnapping insurance. In Mexico City there has even been speculation that the list of who has this specific insurance may be available for a price to those wishing to profit.
The important perspective is that more people will visit Mexico by noon tomorrow than will visit London in a year, paints a much clearer picture of the odds of these events. Tijuana, one of the most volatile cities in Mexico had a murder rate of 5.7/100K in 2007. That compares quite directly with Philadelphia, a city of approximately the same size and almost identical murder rate. (San Diego across the line does draw a sharp contrast as it has one of the lowest murder rates, right around 3/100K) Most of these murders have been ‘within the family’ of drug traffickers in TJ. We see a flurry of travel warnings for TJ, yet travel is still encouraged to places like New Orleans (one of the most dangerous non-war zone cities in the world with a murder rate of over 18/100K) About two thirds of American cities rated had a higher murder rate than Tijuana.
Remember, firearms are NOT in option in Mexico for securing your safety. There are military checkpoints, specifically looking for weapons and drugs. Should you have the misfortune of having to defend yourself with a weapon, it is very possible that you would face jail time as well. There is a 1 year minimum sentence for weapons or ammunition.
Drive smart, drive awake arrive safe. Mucho Ojo!
Tomas