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Baja California Road Report
The latest reports of road conditions and driving conditions along Mexico's Hwy 1 through Baja California.
Our road reports depend on our network of BajaInsider readers to give us the lowdown on the 1000 miles of road between the border and Cabo San Lucas. If you are driving Baja you can submit your detailed road report and earn an Insider Polo shirt! We also appreciate your pictures! But please, be sure they are taken from the passenger's side!
There is still one truisms/joke about driving in Baja...
How many doors on a Baja Roadside rest area? Two, the driver's and passenger's!
Sobriety road blocks are becoming more common, particularly in community problem areas. In May there were 4 fatalities on the road to Pichilinque and the beaches of Balandra and Tecolote north of La Paz. They involved excessive speed, passing in bad areas and wrong way drivers. Now, La Paz police are checking drivers entering and leaving the downtown area for the beaches beginning at about 7PM Thursday through Sunday.
Road Report: Tijuana to Todos Santos – May 13 & 14, 2009
R.J. Archer, 1st time Baja Traveler
After spending the night in San Diego, we crossed the border about 8:00 a.m. on Wednesday, May 13th. Our Chevy Blazer was loaded to the roof (literally) with household goods, three adults and a cat. On top we had a 20 cubic foot enclosed cargo carrier and we had two empty gas cans lashed to a hitch-mounted cargo carrier on the back.
As we approached the crossing, the only car in front of us was just pulling away, so there was no waiting. We received a green light and we initially waved through, but a second agent motioned for us to stop, so we pulled over. Our youngest son, who holds dual citizenship, a Mexican driver’s license and speaks fluent Spanish, was driving, so he got out and spoke with the agent. After a quick peek in the rear window with a flashlight, he waved us on and we were over the border and into Mexico!
Even though we had a detailed description of how to get from the border crossing to the toll road (the Cuota) we still missed it and ended up in downtown T.J. As it turns out, the sign we were looking for is small and positioned just a few feet before the turn-off. We doubled back in what we thought was the right direction, but eventually had to stop and solicit the help of a taxi driver. He gave us complicated-sounding instructions, but they were right on the money and we were soon on our way south to Ensenada and points south. For the next two days (1,000 miles) the road was mostly narrow, two lane highway. In general, it’s a very hilly drive (both up and down) with lots of curves and in some places the curves and grades are pretty serious. Fortunately for us (and unfortunately for the Baja Peninsula) the economic and swine flu situations have reduced the travel on Highway 1 to a point where we often would go fifteen or twenty minute without seeing another car and there were very few times when we were stuck behind a slow-moving vehicle for more than a couple of minutes.
There was construction in a couple of places, but I don’t remember anything that caused us much delay. We encountered a total of five military check points on our journey south, but we were only asked to stop at one and there it was the same routine as at the border – a quick check through the windows with a flashlight and we were on our way. We think that when they saw how much stuff we had jammed into the Blazer they might have decided it wasn’t worth the effort! Also, we were an adult, two 62+ seniors and a cat – what kind of threat could we possibly pose? J Cars traveling north were being more thoroughly checked, and we saw at least one that had its contents spread out on the ground.
There’s some pretty incredible scenery between T.J. and La Paz: the boulder fields north of Guerrero Negro, the volcano and its lava fields south of Guerrero Negro and the infamous “Slope of Hell” that dramatically drops you down into Santa Rosalia, on the shores of the Sea of Cortez. The longest stretch without gasoline is still between El Rosario and Guerrero Negro. Our map showed four Pemex stations along this 240-mile stretch of road but there were NONE. Based on other road reports posted here, we came prepared and filled our two 5-gallon gas cans in El Rosario but we managed to make it to Guerrero Negro with them still strapped to the cargo carrier. However, if we had encountered a lot of slow moving vehicles, we would definitely have needed them.
As for drive times, we crossed the border at 8:00 a.m., made Guerrero Negro about 8:30 p.m. that night, left about 8:00 a.m. the following morning and arrived in Todos Santos at 8:15 p.m. the second day. It’s not a trip I’m looking forward to doing again, but it was certainly an interesting experience! You can check out our photo journal of the trip at http://www.Baja2Go.com/adventure.
Cabo San Lucas to TJ
April 21, 2009
The Editor - BajaInsider.com
Veteran Baja Driver
A couple times a year one of us from the Insider actually has the opportunity to drive the length of Baja and bring you a detailed Road Report first hand. This time it was my turn, and the second trip in 6 months.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Change some of your dollars to pesos before arriving in Mexico. Most of the Pemex stations at which I stopped or noted were offering a real rip off on the exchange rate. The rate today is 13.28 and some stations were still offering 10. That adds 33% to your fuel costs!
Leaving Cabo on the evening of April 20 for La Paz, the roadway is in great shape. Leaving Cabo, the four lane is complete and now extends 12 miles north of town on Hwy 19. For those of you that are unfamiliar with the highway numbers, Highway one runs the length of the peninsula from TJ to Cabo, but the original route goes via the east side of the peninsula south of La Paz, through Los Barriles and San Jose del Cabo. The leg that runs along the Pacific coast, through Todos Santos is Hwy 19. This is now the shorter of the two, the truck route and the most traveled. it is also the section of roadway that is being widened to 4 lanes to be completed in 2011.
In the stretch of Hwy 19 to Todos Santos, there was nothing but clear sailing to report. The road surface is in great shape and there are no resurfacing or construction projects in that region. In Todos Santos itself there are some street projects underway and some minor pavement breaks for water main or sewer repair.
Just north of Todos the 4 lane construction project is underway near the Wilson organic farm complex traffic is routed to a dirt by-pass for about 1km while road bed work is being done. The dirt by-pass is a little bumpy but road graders were in the process of leveling it out when I went through. it would not present a problem for most vehicles. At the 7km point north of Todos they have closed and torn up part of the new 4 lane and are bridging two arroyos. These bridges will most likely be completed by late June. The construction of the 4 lane will be complete from La Paz to Todos Santos at that time.
The four lane is complete from there to the intersection of Highway 1 and 19. The construction there will include an overpass for northbound traffic that will end the dangerous problems of turning traffic at this secluded intersection. The four lane is complete all the way to La Paz.
This was my first opportunity to drive north through Chemetla and Comitan in several months. There has been a serious bloom of topes in the area and traffic was reduced to about 40mph for about 5 miles. The area is certainly growing. The most thorough inspection of my northbound journey took place at the military check point just north of La Paz.
There were only a few areas of construction in the entire length of Baja. The first construction on Hwy 1 was at Km121 just north of Pococitas. The roadway is being re-bedded and re-paved and the bypass road is dirt. It was a little rough, but passable by any vehical at low speeds.
There is additional repaving going on just north of Santa Rosa, at Km154. This construction bypass was also dirt and some of it was pretty loose. I was traveling in tire ruts about 8" deep in soft, dusty sand. Again, it would be passable by any behical at low speeds.
it was clear sailing for the next 3hrs. Construction in Consitucion is complete. The improvements created a two lane center through road with two lanes on each side for local access. i was amused to note that the access road lanes traveled faster than the center through lane and allowed drivers access to roadside businesses.
Just north of the CD Insergentes turn off, there is a breif area of road patching that will probably be complete by the time this article is published.
The road was in excellent shape all the way to Loreto. Just south of Loreto they are constructing a new bridge and there is a brief detour to a dirt bypass, less than 1000 feet. The bypass again, was a bit rough, but passable with any vehical.
Along the route I noticed a few northbound North American license plates, but I thought it rather unusual for this time of year, a large number of southbound folks with toys in tow from kayaks to jet skis. In the entire trip I passed 6 Federal Highway Patrol cars and one Green Angel.
There was some extremely rough pavement on the stretch north of Guerreo Negro north of the border into Baja California. I was forced to reduce my speed for more than 20 miles up the grade into Valle de los Ciros natural reserve. The road was in fantastic shape from Catavina to El Rosario.
There was significant construction in the pueblo of El Rosario, where Highway 1 meets the Pacific coast. The entire roadway is torn up, and traffic is diverted onto dirt, often one way for about 2km. Culverts are being built and the entire roadbed is being replaced. it must be a dusty mess for those folks living in town.
Much to my surprise, the military check point north of El Rosario was drastically reduced from my November trip. The permenant landscaping was still there, bu the bypass was closed and half a dozen soldiers briefly checked on my car along the roadside. This was the second largest surprise of my northbound trip. usually the security increased as you got closer to the border. The Baja California inspection points were much more lax than the Baj Sur check point. There was no intense finger printing checkpoint near San Ignacio that had been rumored by some of our readers.
The slowest part of the trip began just north of El Rosario and got down right tedious through and north of San Quentin. The area is a growing agricultrual area and busses, cargo trucks and slow traffic were dramatically slowed by a plethora of new topes and speed reductions. I was slowed to an average of 35mph for more than 30km. There is significant road construction of an access road and through lanes though San Quentin, but this had little to do with the slow progress.
My business took me to San Ysidro, so I did not intentionally explore the new route to Otay Mesa. However, I was looking for the new turn-off and was unable to find it.
The biggest surprise of the trip came at my arrival at the San Ysidro border crossing. With all 21 lanes open there were less than 20 cars ahead of me in my lane. My total border wait time on a Tuesday afternoon was less than 10 minutes!
All and all, it was the easiest drive I have done in more than 20 trips along Baja. The road was in good shape, there were no unusual delays and security was not a question along the highway. Happy trails all!
For a general description of the drive down the Baja peninsula - click here.
Tecate to Ensenada on Mx Hwy 3
February 27, 2009
Lee the Hund
Veteran Baja Driver
A note for Driving Baja Highway 3, it is now under major construction between Valle De Guadalupe and Highway 1.
It's being widened to four lanes and there are areas with a one meter drop-off right up to the fog line! It is white knuckle driving in an RV, which we did a few days ago.
Lots of gravel, as well. Still, Tecate is our prefered point of entry.
Lee
Tecate to Cabo San Lucas
Jan 30, 2009
Cabo Roger
Veteran Baja Driver
Hola amigos! Today is January 30th, I'm currently in Loreto en route to Cabo. I crossed the border early Tuesday morning at Tecate, very easy to cross there, there is some road construction outside of Tecate between Ensenada, but moves quickly. The road thus far has been in mostly excellent condition with a few ruff spots here and there. All check points have been very friendly and effortless. Other than the wind blowing the entire way from the north it\'s been a great trip. Stopped in Bahia de los Angeles for two nights and the road to the bay is in excellent condition. Very little traffic on the road and very few gringos along the way. I've only seen a few motor homes/campers on the road itself. Safe travels everyone!
CHECK POINT ALERT!
January 8, 2009
Tomas - BajaInsider
Veteran Baja Driver
Most of the military checkpoints (see How to Handle Military Checkpoints) along Baja Highway 1 are now permanent or at least semi permanent. They have established guard shacks, spike strips and even shade palapas for the inspection process. In the past month however, new random and mobile checkpoints are being used by the PJE or Federal Police for the interdiction of drugs and weapons. To new Baja travelers, and in the light of events of 2007 along the highway, these can appear somewhat disturbing.
The Mexican government has reason to believe that Highway 1 is being used as a transportation route for illicit drugs and weapons to the troubled border areas. The government has therefore increased federal presence along the highway with these random and mobile checkpoints. To Baja newbies, the black jump suits, heavy weapons and even black ski masks can be dauning. The reason the police are wearing ski masks is for the protection of themselves and their families, much in the same way that stateside SWAT and drug interdiction police do. It is NOT because they intent to harm you or rip you off. In fact, their task is to prevent that from happening in the future. These are VERY serious federal police officers.
DO NOT attempt to take photographs or video at these or any other checkpoints in Mexico!
Since they are attempting to interdict the flow of supplies from Sinaloa to the border areas, you will find most of these road blocks on the route north. These road blocks are always a surprise, but have clearly marked PJE vehicles visible and at least one unmasked attendant to reassure travelers not use to these events. I have not had reports of these roadblocks being active at night. Tourists are usually ushered through quickly, although trucks and larger vehicles have been thoroughly searched on occasion.
Cooperate. Do not mess with these guys, joke around, become indignant or attempt to bypass the road block. To a large extent, particularly the closer to the border you get, the more these police actually fear for THIER lives. Escalating a situation has the distinct possibility of ending badly for you.
Also, there is now a Zero Tolerance for drunk driving campaign in effect, particularly in Baja California Sur. Weekend evenings will find sobriety checkpoints, often on the outskirts of town. They are regular occurrence at the north end of Cabo San Lucas and in three locations in La Paz.
These checkpoints are clearly marked and with several local police cars, flashing lights and road cones are very similar to the checkpoints we have in the USA for the similar problem. You will be asked if you have been drinking and to show your license (make sure it is valid or it could cost you $80USD) and possibly your registration. If they feel you are in violation it is not common for them to have a 'breathaizer' in the car and you will most likely be required to take a trip to the police station for a blood alcohol test. Once they have decided that you are in violation, we advise cooperation, as becoming indignant will cause the situation to escalate very quickly and simple fines could turn into jail time.
We have also received reports of the Federal Highway Patrol in the Santa Rosalia area turning traffic stops into Christmas Bonus Time. The is VERY unusual for the Federal Highway Patrol although it has long been a minor problem with local law enforcement. We advise that you carry only a believable amount of cash in your wallet along with your driving documents and tourist card or FM documents and one ATM or Credit Card. Pack the rest away, not in the glove box or under the seat as those areas are legitimate searchable locations. Paying a mordida (bribe) on the side of the road is just as illegal as excepting one. However, if you do find yourself in a situation that requires you to do so, a limited amount of cash in your wallet could also reduce your 'traffic fine'.
The good news after all this is the roadways are in spectacular condition, such that even large vehicles will find it easy to exceed the speed limit on fresh pavement, improved vados and cambered corners. If you have driven Baja before, many of the little pueblos have grown and now have Topes of their own to reduce traffic speeds, beware your transmission.
As always, we strongly recommend not driving at night. This is partly for security but mainly for those 60 to 0 moments of running into roadside cows and other stationary objects.
I would like to mention my latest 'find' along the roadway. I usually stay at the Hotel Balena in Guerrero Negro but last trip was forced to call it a day in El Rosario. Southbound about 1/2km from the 90° bend is a hotel on the north side of the road called Motel Sinahi. They have in-compound parking RV parking and the rooms although small, are pleasantly furnished, clean and there is plenty of hot water. The rate was $250pesos (about $19) per night.
Happy driving and hope to see you in Baja soon!
Additional Comments by the Editor
A newspaper in California contacted us about towing a trailer down Baja while I was editing John's story about the road conditions. I forwarded the above information to them along with the additional general information about driving Baja and thought, why not pass it along to our readers as well...
#1 DON’T DRIVE AT NIGHT. It’s not banditos, you have a statistical better chance of being struck by lightening. It’s the cows, 60 to 0 in a hurry! Mexicans LOVE 4 way flashers on their cars. Seen on an oncoming car usually indicates cows, or something else in the road ahead. US statistics show the two most dangerous times on a 2 lane highway is dusk and 2AM (when bars close), these stats translate pretty well to our Baja Highway 1
#1A Get Mexican Auto Insurance. US auto insurance does not cover you in Mexico. In the event of an accident you can be detained until fault and payment is determined. Without insurance, you could be fatally delayed from being evacuated to a more significant healthcare facility. Cost is from $25/day to less than $500/year (depending on car, trailer and value)
#2 Don’t be ostentatious, cover things of value like kayaks and brand new outboards. Keep the volume down and try to remain nondescript. This is good advice for travel anywhere where the locals earn in a year what you may earn in a week or month. If you look like you have too much, someone will relieve you of the ‘burden’.
#3 Don’t push it. Take 2 days in a car or three days from San Diego with a trailer. The road has very little ‘cruise control time’ so you are ‘on’ constantly and it gets wearing. Carry at least one extra tire for each vehicles and some extra gas. Be sure to buy gas in El Rosario, it’s 200km to the next full Pemex stop in Santa Rita, there is a mini station in Catavina now.
#4 Check our Road Report – we rely on reader participation, so during the summer it can get a little stale. rivers should watch for small washouts in the shoulder that can be painful when towing. They can send us a road report when they arrive and help everyone.
#5 Check the weather – We post forecasts every day and every two hours when a tropical cyclone threatens Baja. We have the ONLY English weather report FROM Baja. Don’t be the first to drive through a flooded vado (although there may not even be any more) Should a tropical cyclone ZZZZ materialize, find a nice hotel. Although this too is becoming history, sometimes you can get stranded nowhere on a highway island when roads flood or wash out. But as I said, this is becoming pretty rare. You can also run into gas stations that are shut down or have flooded tanks in storms. Damage usually only lasts a day or two. Hwy 1 is a major transport route for about 20-30% of the ‘stuff’ used here in Baja, so the hwy folks get right on making the road passable.
#5 Don’t carry all your money in one place. Carry a believable amount of cash on your wallet. “Driving while Gringo” is still an offence that could by a cop lunch (or a new set of tires) If you can open your wallet and say look, $20 is all I have, you’ll probably be on your way pretty quick. Obeying the traffic laws is another handy way to avoid mordida, but not always sure. Most traffic fines are less than $75USD, most around $25. Don’t get sucked into the photocopied sheet some cops show that shows fines well over $100. Watch when the signs say the Federal Highway is ending (Carraterra federal terminado – Check my Spanish) Speed limits are usually much lower in these non-highway areas and you need to watch. Only Federal Hwy Patrol can effect a violation on the Federal Highway, they now have video cameras in car and radar and tend to be pretty just.. Three places to watch for this scam are La Paz, Catavina (note: even the trucks do 25mph though there) and Santa Rosalia.
#7 If you need roadside assistance the Green Angels are there to help. These are federally paid, well equipped and clearly marked trucks that roam Hwy 1. Most will refuse a tip for there assistance, there is an esprit du corps that somehow seems to keep these guys squeaky clean. I have never heard a bad Green Angle story. (their trucks have traditionally been green)
#8 Get your tourist visa as soon as you can when entering Mexico or at the consulate prior to your trip. I think in response to the US’s crack down on immigration we see them following the letter of the law on most occasions. If you get to Baja Sur without a tourist visa or valid FM2 or 3, your $18/180 day visa can cost you an extra $50 fine.
#9 On straight-aways consider driving more toward the center of the road. This will give you more time to react and help avoid those little washouts at the shoulder.
In mentioning the shoulder we should also mention that it is also one of the challenges of baja driving. The lack of a shoulder in a majority of your trip. Having a flat along the road may mean setting inin a very dangerous situation. Flairs, cones, reflectors and even rocks, leading away from the shoulder are used to indicate a vehicale in the roadway ahead. Construction crews sometimes use rocks painted white or paint cans with burning diesel rags at night.
As to the safety threat – There has been massive response by the government and not a single attack on the highways of a tourist since last November (prior to the response) I won’t get into specific incidents, but many of the incidents I investigated involved being a ‘gringo tonto’. As I am aware, all of these attacks occurred in the first 100 miles south of the border.
North Americans have some of the tightest internal security (for the good and bad of it) of any nation I have traveled, and Americans pay the price for it. (yet bad thing STILL happen in state and national parks and along our roadways. Americans become ‘unaware travelers’ as a side effect. Finding the most secluded place along the beach to camp isn’t something I would do in at least ½ the countries to which I have traveled. A person who keeps up their awareness can usually tell when ‘the wolves start to circle.’
Just in contrast to all the ‘propaganda’ generated by slanted publications like the San Diego Union Tribune, who would have you believe that you have about a 50-50 chance of surviving a trip to Mexico, was the comment made by the Baja First Timer co-pilot of my friend, John Henigan mentioned above. They suffered three flat tires along the way and in each event the found a local, ready and eager to assist them on their way. Their warmth and willingness to offer what ever they had to resolve the problem melted away any Mexiphobia she had prior to the adventure.
One recent story in the Trib stated that “Kidnapping of Americans in Tijuana was the fastest growing crime segment’ True and false. The numbers off the top of my head were an increase from 14 to 26, yes an 85% increase. (see More than ½ of these events appear to have involved illicit activity, shall we say. Kidnapping is a growing industry in Mexico and the people have just about had enough (note demonstration last weekend) But the victims have been doctors at hospitals, management people of corporations and others that may be protected by deep pockets or kidnapping insurance. In Mexico City there has even been speculation that the list of who has this specific insurance may be available for a price to those wishing to profit.
The important perspective is that more people will visit Mexico by noon tomorrow than will visit London in a year, paints a much clearer picture of the odds of these events. Tijuana, one of the most volatile cities in Mexico had a murder rate of 5.7/100K in 2007. That compares quite directly with Philadelphia, a city of approximately the same size and almost identical murder rate. (San Diego across the line does draw a sharp contrast as it has one of the lowest murder rates, right around 3/100K) Most of these murders have been ‘within the family’ of drug traffickers in TJ. We see a flurry of travel warnings for TJ, yet travel is still encouraged to places like New Orleans (one of the most dangerous non-war zone cities in the world with a murder rate of over 18/100K) About two thirds of American cities rated had a higher murder rate than Tijuana.
Remember, firearms are NOT in option in Mexico for securing your safety. There are military checkpoints, specifically looking for weapons and drugs. Should you have the misfortune of having to defend yourself with a weapon, it is very possible that you would face jail time as well. There is a 1 year minimum sentence for weapons or ammunition.
Drive smart, drive awake arrive safe. Mucho Ojo!
Tomas
