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Carnival La Paz, 2008 – "The Orient & the Mysteries of Our Origin"
Carnaval La Paz *Please note the
correct spelling is - "Carnaval" meaning the end of carne (meat)
for the period of Lent. It is spelled BOTH ways in this article for the benefit of Search Engines.
Carnival La Paz will be held from February 14 thru 19, 2008. Carnaval La Paz will not be held on the traditional dates (Jan 31- Feb 5) coinciding with the beginning of Lent , due to State elections.
Most of the events are centered around the Esplanade along the Malecon, although events and stages will be in place in many locations along the waterfront. This years Masquerade Ball will be held at the Galleon Salon in Marina Palmira.
Click here for the Official Program of Events for Carnival La Paz
Carnaval
La Paz usually ends on 'Fat Tuesday, the day before the beginning of
Lent and this floats with the Easter Holiday. This year however, due to Baja California Sur elections, the event will take place on February 14-19, 2008
I did a little research on the origination of the word "carnaval". The general consensus is that it evolved during the middle ages, as part of the Roman Catholic ritual of lent. It gets a little more vague after that.
The Venetian seem to claim the most palatable explanation. The Shrove Thursday celebration is closely related to the history of the Serenissima Republic of Venice, consequently to the victory over Ulrico, Patriarch of Aquileia.
Ulrico's
troops had attacked Venice while the "Serenissima" was busy fighting
another war against the Ducati of Padova and Ferrara. Italy was a lively
place, at that time.
After
the defeat, Ulrico of Aquileia, had to pay the Venetians one bull and
12 pigs, as war reimbursement. (I wish invading Iraq had been so cheap!)
So, from that
moment on, the tradition was established of "executing" every year that
same amount of animals in the San Marco square, and all the population
participated to the feast, banquet, dances, acrobats. I found
this story stretched even a little further: Because Catholics are not
supposed to eat meat during Lent, they called their festival, carnevale
— which means “to put away the meat.” As time passed, Carnaval evolved. Carnavals in Italy became quite famous;
and in fact the practice spread to France, Spain, and all the Catholic
countries in Europe. Then as the French, Spanish, and Portuguese began
to take control of the Americas and other parts of the world, they brought
with them their tradition of celebrating carnaval.
What
ever the historical interpretation of Carnaval I found one wood cut
dating from the middle of the last millennium that translated distinctly.
The imagery of the wild horse, the moon forming horns over the reveler's
head, all that can be interpreted in different ways. The open purse
dumping money on the ground is universal. With food, rides, cervesa,
tequila, novelties and just plain Carni-crap free flowing, it's easy
to loose hold of the purse strings.
One
thing to consider when you are walking through the press of the crowds
is that carnaval gathers the dark side of Baja in the same place. Mind
your purse, camera's and wallets when out at night. The security provided
by the local polica, state police and military was vigilant and ever
present
The press of the crowd can be overwhelming at times. I'm a big guy and years ago the crowd swept me down the Malécon, literally off my feet, some 1/2 a block past my waiting friends. I found carnaval more enjoyable in the earlier hours, before all the cervesa and tequila had a chance to soak into the crowd.
The evening parade is one of the highlights of the carnaval. Sunday though Tuesday at dusk the parade marches down the Malecón.
There is a reading, opening night and again on Sunday, by the winning poet laureate in "The Game of Flowers or Florals". The Game of Florals goes back to 169 B.C.E. Roman times, when a competition was held for the street poets, troubadours and bards where the winner was awarded a golden flower encrusted with gems, of which to give the lady of his choosing. The competition was dedicated to the Roman goddess Flora and is most likely the origin of the term, 'to use flowery words'.
There is a king and queen. Some of the most beautiful women and a handful of men in La Paz come out of the woodwork to compete for this honor. The queen and her court ride on one float. Picking a winner has to be an incredibly difficult job, they are each flawless Baja Beauties. The parade King rides a few floats behind with his court. Funny enough though, there seemed to be a few more chicas on his float to keep the crowd watching and the queen on her toes. Plus there is the King of Fools, (see "Hunch back of Notre Dame") who rides his own float in the parade, tossing candy to the parade watchers.
Always keep your eye on the parade. There are larger gifts sometimes hurled to or from the crowd, like full, chilled cans of beer or Coke. These gifts are much more appreciated when caught with the hand instead of the back of your head.
Carnaval 2003 - A Poem by Will Pirone
First.
you have to understand that driving an 18 wheeler for Corona, Modelo
or Pacifico pretty much puts you in the same crowd as Michael Jordan
or Wayne Gretski in Mexico. Not only do you work with cervesa but you
get PAID for it!
The floats in the parade are sponsored by major players in many different industries, Telcel, banks, race teams and civic organizations. Tossing candy and the occasional full can of beer to the crowd they went their way down the Malecón in their annual PR bust.
The first year I was here a fist fight broke out between the parade organizers and representative drivers from at least two different beer companies. Why? It was unclear or unacceptable as to which company would lead off the parade.
Organizers alternate parade routes, so each end of town sees the parade first. But they have four days of parades and three beer companies, it's just bad math.
The solution was three parades that night. One beer company lead the way. Then there was a long pause. Many observers assumed that that was it, and started wandering down the street towards the main events at the Municipal Pier area. Soon the sea of humanity was parted, and another set of flashing lights and motorcycles ushered the second then third segments of the parade down the street.
Th
ere were some interesting
stage shows happening at the main stage at the foot of 16th de Septembre,
near the municipal pier. Big name Latin acts appeared nightly. National
television broadcast at least one night from the main stage. I don't
recognize many of the entertainers, but I have developed a taste for
a dozen Latina lovelies leaping about the stage in spandex and a handful
of sequins. There was a little more local talent on the main stage this
year including our local Polynesian dance academy students.
The carnaval is growing up this year. The was a huge diamond vision screen to the left and right of the main stage expanding the viewing area down the street.
The food, the aromas and the diversity of people you see at carnaval make it the event. The carnaval rides are fun for many, I watched a leaky hydraulic support rise and fall from the ground as 30 or so screaming hi-G riders whirled overhead spewing change (and sometimes more) through the crowd. I chose to remain on the ground and save my 5 pesos. But then again, I jumped off a 300' bridge in Colorado with a rubber band on my feet for much more money.
Can't miss the blanket auctioneers.
Selling blankets like they aren't going to make anymore tomorrow, these
guys sell combination stacks at break neck speed. With home modified
microphones blaring though sound systems Jimmy Page discarded four decades
ago you soon discover that every phrase in Spanish ends in an "S". Yet
there are those ardent blanket buyers who stand there, right in front
of the speakers, waiting patiently for the auctioneer to package the
"Elvis" bedspread with the Winnie the Poo comforter, then loose his
mind and lets them sell for the ridiculous price of $180 pesos. (I found
the prices a bit better than retail, best on the last two days of the
carnaval)
It's a piece of Mexico folks,
if your in the area, don't miss out. If you missed out we'll see you
next Carnaval!
Tomas