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Excerpt from the chapter “The Sea of Cortés” in Miraculous Air: Journey of
a Thousand Miles through Baja California, the Other Mexico by C. M. Mayo.
Author CM Mayo will be holding a book signing event with
our other favorite author,
Ann Hazard on February 18 in San Jose del Cabo.
Click here for more details.
 There were no Amazons, no Seven Cities of Cíbola, no
hoards of gold — only pearls, which the Pericú wore in necklaces strung
with red berries and bits of shells. The pearls were ugly blackened little
nubs because the Indians had no knives; to open the oyster shells they
threw them into a fire. The Spaniards slipped in their sharp and slender
knife points: many of these yielded good Oriental pearls, white and
gleaming.
Beginning in the sixteenth century, pearl fishers from the
mainland crossed the Sea of Cortés to work the rich beds around the Bahía
de La Paz, Isla Espíritu Santo and points north — Loreto and Bahía
 Concepción as far as Mulegé. The divers worked most efficiently during the
warm months from May to September. Usually enough pearls were found to
make the crossing profitable, but never enough to support a settlement.
None of the colonies at La Paz had survived: Cortés’ failed in 1535;
another headed by Sebastián Vizcaíno in 1596 also failed; Admiral Atondo’s
failed in 1683; even the Jesuits' Mission La
Paz failed, its poor thatched adobe huts smashed and burned in the
Rebellion of 1734. By the time the rebellion was quashed, too few Indians
survived to justify a full-time missionary. And already the pearls,
heavily fished for more than a century, had apparently become scarce.
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In the daytime he watched the Yaqui Indian divers
at work, naked but for their loin cloths and a sharp stick which they used
to dig out the oysters and fend off sharks.
It was a primitive method of production for so precious a
commodity. From the crude little canoes bobbing in the Bahía de la Paz,
the pearls found their way into coronets and scepters, velvet robes and
satin gowns. (“We attended a gala event at the theater with the most
beautiful ladies of Mexico," boasted the Empress Carlota in one of her
letters, “who arrived covered in pearls from the Gulf of Cortez [sic] and
dressed in the latest fashions from Paris.”) “The most esteemed ones,”
according to the Jesuit historian Clavigero, “are those which, besides
being large, white, and lustrous, are spherical or oval; and especially
valuable are those which are pear-shaped.” As was the 400 grain Pearl of
La Paz, made a present to the Queen of Spain.
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But then in 1740, perhaps because of a chubasco, an
immense quantity of pearl oyster shells was thrown up on the beach north
of Mulegé. The Indians there, hoping to please the soldiers, brought some
of the shells to the mission at San Ignacio. Manuel de Ocio was one of
those soldiers. Abandoning the mission, he left for the pearlbeds at once.
Bane of the Jesuits, within a few years Ocio had sold hundreds of pounds
of pearls and parlayed his fortune into properties in Guadalajara, silver
mines in the mountains south of La Paz, and, grazing over the mission
territories of the cape region, that voracious herd of 16,000 head of
cattle.
 Pearl fishing continued over the next century, primarily in the beds
around the Bahía de la Paz and Isla Espíritu Santo. When the U.S. forces
invaded in 1847, as many as a hundred boats were pearl fishing in the
area. As lieutenant E. Gould Buffum recalled in
his memoir, in those heady
days before the battles with the Guerrilla Guadalupana, he sailed out to
the pearl fisheries off Isla Espíritu Santo one “clear and beautiful
moonlit night” with “a delicious land breeze which blew our little boat so
rapidly over the water.”
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By the early twentieth century, when journalist Arthur North came through,
La Paz had become chief producer in the world's pearl fishing industry. In
his 1908 book The Mother of California, North noted that the peninsula’s
“annual output is valued at a quarter of a million dollars, gold, and is
promptly marketed in London, Paris and other great European marts.” Using
modern diving apparatus, the divers could dive deeper now, and dig out
more shells from more beds. With the ensuing glut of pearls, pearl prices
fell, and so the divers dove yet deeper and brought up more pearls. Each
diver harbored the hope of a treasure — a egg-sized find, perfectly round,
or perfectly oval, brilliantly lustered, a pearl that would be, as
Steinbeck called it in his novella The Pearl, “the Pearl
of the World.” But most oysters, cracked open, were empty, nothing but
quivering gray tongue. As time went by, the pearls, when the divers found
them, were increasingly unremarkable specimens, tiny things to be strung
on a simple necklace or glued to the end of a hat pin. By 1940, when
Steinbeck and Ricketts came through on their collecting expedition, almost
all that was left were stories. An unknown disease had decimated the
sparse remaining beds, and though the large companies based in La Paz
attempted to limit pearl fishing, individuals — often women in nothing but
a loin cloth and a helmet with an air tube — continued to work isolated
stretches of coast.
By the end of World War II, Baja California's pearl
oysters had all but disappeared, and La Paz's pearl industry, the economic
engine of the peninsula for nearly four centuries, was dead. Like the
Pericú themselves with their burnt little pearls strung together with
berries and shells, a world is gone.
Excerpt from the chapter “The Sea of Cortés” in Miraculous
Air: Journey of a Thousand Miles through Baja California, the Other Mexico
(University of Utah Press, 2002). © C.M. Mayo. All rights reserved. Posted
by permission of the author. www.cmmayo.com
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