Free diving is like scuba diving, only without the air.
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on images in this article to expand)
Can you imagine what it would be like to actually swim
with sharks, blend in with shoals of fish, or come with feet of an
inquisitive 800 pound marlin? Imagining is often the closest we get! The
problem with SCUBA is that we’re just too clumsy, burdened with heavy
equipment and noisy! Free-diving, using no more than mask and fins might be
the answer. “All you have to be is comfortable in the water and in good
health, especially your ears. Given that, anybody can free-dive". What
anybody? Even me, a dedicated scuba-diver? There was only one way to find
out. I would learn how to free-dive.
Now, being taught to Free-dive by some Internationally
recognised top instructors is enticing enough, but doing so in desolate,
quite camp in the desert, feet from the marvels of the Sea of Cortez, now we
have something irresistible! This magnificent recipe was provided by Aharon
Solomons and his wife MT (Short
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Very impressive, atmospheric, and very hot. As we rumbled along the
road the scenery grew more rugged and dramatic by the mile. The journey
to camp really is a fantastic way to start your time there. With the
sea of Cortez to the right and the stony scrub covered hillsides to the left,
there was only two ways, forward or backwards, giving a growing feeling of a
slightly imposing isolation which, adds to the whole excitement and
anticipation of seeing what was round the next headland as we left behind all
signs of civilisation.
The site of the camp, El Coyote, is a stones throw from
the sea and nicely sheltered all round by scrub, with the houses of the Clammers and their families just a little further inland. With the shade
from the sun and the front of the camp open to the cool Coromuel breeze off
the sea it made for a very comfortable spot.
The scene out of the back of the campsite was to me one of
an old Spaghetti Western, with the impressive Cardon Cacti casting long
shadows in the evening sun. The sun sets over the hills behind the
camp, creating some of the nicest colours I've had the pleasure to see,
stretching left and right until meeting with the sea again somewhere on the
distant horizon. |
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 for
Maria-Teresa, who recently decided to make Baja their
home, and their base training ground. Both were qualified as
instructors by world free-diving record-holders Umberto Pelizzari and
Francisco "Pipin" Ferreras. Both Aharon and MT are capable of a constant-
weight free-dive to more than 58 meters. Having various proven competitive
training successes and currently responsible for selecting and training the
next Mexican Free diving team, I know I am in capable hands.
Now, in this case, getting to your training ground, is an
experience worth the trip in itself. After having been welcomed at the
airport by Aharon & MT themselves, and a quick bite to eat, we travel out of
La Paz, with both the traffic and built up areas dwindled quickly, leaving a
movie like scene of desert scrub with a shimmering tarmac road stretching off
into the distance, with a horizon of rising orange and green tinted hills.
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The remainder of the evening was spent by the fire chatting and discussing
the days ahead, until my eyes still heavy with travel refused to stay open
any longer, forcing me to retire to my tent.
As with any scuba course, there is theory to cover. Aharon
begins with the 20 safety rules, which include: never free-dive alone, never
free-dive after scuba, and know your limits. The lectures continue with
physics, physiology and technique. Aharon and MT teach free-diving the Umbert
Pelizzari way. Following the clear manual that I am provided, I quickly
gather that this is a mere guideline, and the true teaching stems from my
instructors vast personal experiences.
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