The Baja California Travel & Living Webzine

<<Back to Page 1

Until a few years ago, Goldie acted as San Blas’ unofficial ship’s agent by

helping visiting “yateros” get their papers cleared and arrange for fuel and other services. However, Goldie said he became

disillusioned “after too many cruisers became shirk-laws and tried to sneak in without clearing papers.” He added, “Don’t come here if you don’t want to abide by the law.”

Sportfishing aboard his Mako 20 with 140 Johnsons now occupies most of Goldie’s time. He loves to take visitors fishing or act as guide on other people’s boats. The local catches are marlin, sailfish, dorado, snook, corbina, red snapper and Spanish mackerel. Goldie refers visiting boaters to local services, but does not collect a commission. His wife, Janet Mary de Goldie, is an artist who honors the region’s indigenous Huichol tribes. Her watercolors and limited-edition lithographs are exhibited in the National Museum at Tepic and in other galleries around the world.

ANCHORAGES

Once you’ve been piloted safely inside the harbor, the main anchorage is along the west side of the North-South channel. Anchor opposite the second basin that opens off the east side of the channel. Don’t block the channel, because shrimpers and small commercial fishing boats steam through here at full throttle – often with the current behind them.

Our worst complaint about San Blas and Matanchén Bay is the “no-see-‘ums” – a microscopic gnat with a nasty bight – that come out for a few hours when the wind dies at sunset. Boaters can spray their screens with House & Garden Insect Spray or slather on the Canadian Watkins insect repellant cream or Avon’s Skin So Soft. Or burn coconut husks below deck like incense, which is what many of the locals do.

REPAIRS

The red light-tower marking the east side of the entrance into San Blas harbor was nearly toppled by storm waves, but it still

operates – though it may still have a crooked stance when you get here. During the Port Captain’s office was chest deep in water, the beach road around Matanchen Bay was washed out in several places, but it has been fixed. Trees and debris that washed up on San Blas’s beautiful oceanfront beaches have been cleared away.

Private homes in town suffered the worst damage. When Hurricane Kenna stopped directly over San Blas, it brought winds in excess of 100 mph and dumped torrential rains for several days before moving inland. Kenna tore off the roofs and flooded the interiors, washing the mortar out of the brick walls. The Port Captain told us that 90% of the homes were reduced to piles of rubble.

Fortunately, the 50,000 residents of San Blas and its vicinity had been evacuated to shelters in upland Tepic. After the storm, the Mexican Army arrived to prevent looting and to operate the heavy equipment that reopened the roads and got basic power and water back online.

Anchor in about 10’ to 13’ of water over good holding mud. The Port Captain posts a guard at the dinghy landing, found on the east side of the channel before the two basins. The guard can give you directions in Spanish and will watch your dinghy while you go ashore.

MATANCHÉN BAY

Matanchén Bay lies about 3.5 miles east of San Blas harbor, beyond Punta Camarones and another point that are both fringed with breakers. The best anchoring spots in Matanchén Bay are in the northwest corner, north of Punta Camarones. Anchor in 15’ to 22’ over soft mud.

Goldie recommends that Ismael’s Ramada is the only secure place to land a dinghy and have someone watch over it, especially if you go ashore at night. Painted bright turquoise, this friendly seafood cantina has water for showers and they speak English. From Ismael’s beach, it’s a half-mile walk to the crossroads village of Los Islitas where a regular bus takes you into San Blas.

Anyone who lost their home was given all the materials necessary to rebuild it, thanks to an array of disaster relief organizations. Many international NGOs donated cash, equipment and supplies. Mexican Army soldiers and marines trucked in concrete blocks, plywood, spools of electrical cables and miles of new water pipes, then they stayed to rebuild the infrastructure. All the hotels, restaurants and tourist services are alive and well – with a fresh coat of paint.

GOLDIE’S HOSPITAL

Norm Goldie organized assistance for a small local hospital for those without insurance, and boaters planning to visit San Blas could bring down much needed medicines – anything from aspirin to chemotherapy drugs, even out-of-date prescriptions for any common ailments such as arthritis and high-blood pressure. He said the hospital can make good use of cash for the Medicine Fund and of any medical equipment, especially a small EKG unit.

Clothing for men, women and children for donation to the hospital’s patients can be brought to Goldie’s home near the harbor. Children who have been displaced by Mother Nature appreciate a few toys as well.

For more information about donations to help San Blas recover from hurricane damage, boaters may contact Goldie by phone: 011-52 (323) 285-0238.

Our special thanks to our new friends at Point Loma Publishing for sharing this article with us - Tomas

^Top of article^
 

Insider Notebook: The Sign That Can Save You Hundreds $$$

No this sign does not mean topless bar ahead! Topes are speed restricting obstacles placed to slow traffic in populated areas. Along Highway 1 most of the Topes give plenty of advanced warning, some more than 500m. The tricky ones however, can be the second or third in a series, just when you think it's safe to pick up the pace.

One of the most devastating encounters I recall with a Tope was on my first drive down Baja. Just past the long straightaway of the Santo Tomas vineyards my co-pilot was frantically searching the Spanish/English dictionary. It was the hope that TOPE meant some kind of specialty restaurant when our heads against the roof of the car made the translation for us. As if that was not bad enough, it was punctuated with the sounds of chassis and radiator against pavement. It seemed no coincidence there was a radiator and transmission shop within yards.

Just as a side note, I noticed that my infamous Tope had been mellowed and rounded on my August drive. But beware! These guys can bite!